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The EVO-ONE installed in my 2003 Buick Century prevents my car's actual starter(not remote starter) from cranking for 5-10+mins at a time. Here is the rundown: -Unlock car and start with actual key=no issue. -Remote start car with Fortin RF kit, hop into car, insert key and turn ignition to run position=no issue. Here's where it gets weird... -Remote start the car with Fortin RF kit. Car starts and is running. -I hop in and insert the key into ignition but "forget" to turn the ignition barrel at all. -I hit the brake, as you would before putting the car into gear and the car shuts off, as it should, due to the ignition barrel not being turned to "run" position before the brake tap. -After the car has shut off due to tapping the brake before turning ignition to "run", I turn my key that is in the ignition barrel already and my car's actual starter willl not even attempt to crank. All other items in the car turn on as they should(i.e. radio, air, fuel pump primes, etc.). EVO will turn the car on but will not even try and crank the starter if I try to remote start again at this point. -I wait about 10mins and then try a few more times with the actual physical key and the car will start now. So after the car comes back alive, I can turn it on and off with the key a million times in a row just fine. I go and repeat the remote starting and put the key in ignition(but not turned to "run") and tap the brake to shut the car off and the car now will not start again. I can replicate this every single time I do what I described above. This problem cost me $200 and and hour on my back in 5F weather putting a new starter in about a month ago because I figured the starter solenoid died on my wife. Why would this be happening? This car is equipped from the factory with an anti-grind relay. It's acting like anti-grind relay thinks the car is trying to double start, which it's not.

Commands given from the RF642W two way kit are unreliable. Lock and unlock commands do not work 1/4 or more of the time, even when standing within 10ft. of the antenna. The remote beeps as if it has made communication with the car but the lock/unlock commands do not register. Improper status is also given commonly when using the status request feature. I have gotten confirmation that the car is locked on multiple occasions when the car is surely not locked. This RF kit is spotty at best, what gives? Is there better firmware or something? Antenna is mounted in the front window and has no obstructions. Lock and trunk commands are being fed over OBD. Car is a 2003 Buick Century.

Installed an Evo-One and Fortin RF642W 2 way RF kit in a 2003 Buick Century. Followed "connection 1" and "programming 1" as stated to by this install guide. http://fortin.ca/download/23261/evo-one_ig_reg_bi_gm_j1850_b_23261.pdf

 

All wiring has been verified multiple times to be exactly what the install guide said to do...nothing more and nothing less.

 

When I try to remote start the car, via the 2 way remote, the car will power on but will not crank the starter at all. When I use the remote to kick the car into "idle mode", the car unlocks as it should but shuts off when I turn the ignition off to pull the key.

 

Bypass portion programmed fine....RF remote also programmed fine.

 

Literally, the only wires connected at the moment are what the install guide I linked above says.

I do not see "remote start" mentioned in the features listed for this car for the Evo-One.

 

Does the Evo-One work as both the bypass and remote starter for a 2003 Buick Century?

 

Would it require more wiring than what is shown here(install #1 in the link)? https://fortin.ca/download/23261/evo-one_ig_reg_bi_gm_j1850_b_23261.pdf

Is firmware .51 the same as 1.18 aside from the "lock only at brake tap" option being available through RF kit programming? I know .51 was made after the 1.18 release but I am not sure that means .51 is a built off of 1.18. I am primarily concerned about the temp sensor setting that was updated to a higher temp in firmware 1.18. My defrost works reliably with 1.18 but does not with the lower temp setting of all the previous firmware versions. I need to retain this functionality if .51 is going to be my only "solution" to that head light problem.

2007 Nissan Maxima w/Intellikey Using a T-harness and a Evo-One. When the Evo-One is removed from the car, my physical key will not allow me to turn the ignition barrel. It is not a timed lockout as I let the car sit for over 24hrs without the Evo and I still could not use my physical key. If I plug NOTHING but the red connector into the Evo(not even the power cable), then I can use my physical key in my ignition barrel. Without the red harness connected, I can NOT use my physical key. However, my Intellikey still unlocks the barrel and starts the car just fine without the Evo installed, it's just my actual physical key that won't work. Why is this?

I have the EVO-ONE set to trigger aux 1 at -5C(It is set to pulse for .5sec without disarming the alarm) in a 2007 Nissan Maxima. It is wired to the rear defroster wire at the temp control module connector(connector that plugs into what houses temp controls/defrost button). It isn't triggering rear defrost but it's just barely cold enough too. So a few questions... -Should I be latching instead for this car? I had a hard time finding the relay without somebody to press the defrost button so I went to the temp control module harness...didn't think it made a difference. -Where is the EVO-ONE getting its temp reading to decide if it's cold enough to trigger aux 1? Will it not do it if the car is warmed up already? If it's pulling from inside the car(ambient temp sensor), then this makes sense(inside the car would have to be -5C then). -What is "latch until shutdown" does it latch until you shut down the evo(as in take control of the car typically by pressing the brake) or until you shut off the car? -Why would you latch for only 10-30secs? Is this what required to trigger the relay for some cars?(kind of like if you had to hold the trunk release for 10-30secs to trigger the trunk) I'm just getting to testing this as it's just getting to 29F(-5C) here... I do realize my defrost light won't intially be on. However, when I turn the ignition to "run", the defrost light should be on if it was triggered(which is not happening). I have tested this theory by sitting in the car, remote starting it, pressing defrost(no light comes on), turn ignition of car to "run" (light comes on at ignition turn) to know this.

The yellow/black wire that comes from the 20pin connector on the EVO-ONE is labeld as "trunk release(output)" in the manual. This is the same wire I am suppose to use to trigger an auxillary accesory such as my rear defrost(which is what I wan to do). Does this mean I can use the trunk release button on my OEM fob to trigger the rear defrost? I'm hopping it will trigger the defrost if the car is running without opening my trunk and then go back to only opening my trunk when the car is off.

Will option 35.2 on the remote starter settings for an EVO-ONE(reads as:Activate vehicle ignition at unlock) cause my car to try to start again while it's all ready running? I don't want to grind my starter just to find out(no anti-grind relay installed)... I am trying to unlock the ignition barrel on a 2007 nissan maxima w/intellikey while in idle mode. the intellikey works fine if i just remote start the car but if i kick it into idle mode then i have to unlock the ignition barrel with an actual key which is not cool. I am hoping this option will unlock the ignition barrel when i hit unlock on the doors(I realize the safety issue associated with my igntion barrel unlocking with no key in place).

I have an EVO-ONE installed and working in my 2007 Nissan Maxima w/Intellikey. I use my OEM fob/Intellikey to start the car(3x lock). I can then hop into my car and turn the ignition barrel to the run position with my Intellikey in my pocket still and drive away. When I park the car with it still running, I can hit the lock button 3x on my fob/Intellikey and the car will enter "idle mode". I can turn the ignition barrel to the "off" position and the car will remain running in idle mode. The problem I'm having is after entering "idle mode", I can not turn my ignition barrel back to "run" so that I can drive away without using an actual physical key! Why can I not take control of the car with my Intellikey while in "Idle mode"? The Intellikey still works on the doors while in "idle mode"(I know this because my door handle has a button I can press to unlock if the Intellikey is in range); it just won't let me move the ignition barrel. I have tried walking away from the car out of the Intellikey's range...I'm at a loss and really need this working. Without it, I have purchased and installed an expensive paperweight. EDIT:What about option 35 in the starter settings? It's "Door unlock special application". what would enabling "Activate vehicle ignition at unlock" do? will it try to start everytime i unlock my door then or will it just unlock my igntion barrel like i want it to? EDIT2:I just downgraded from EVO firmware 7.19 back to 7.18 with the same results. When in "idle mode", if I kill the starter via the brake pedal, I can instantly turn the ignition barrel to "run" using the Intellikey(no physical key in the ignition barrel). It simply won't turn the ignition barrel in "idle mode". I'm thinking this is firmware issue with the EVO-ONE.

I really don't want to remove the EVO-ONE that I installed in my 2007 Nissan Maxima w/Intellikey just to program it again(I just want to turn on "unlock doors when ignition is turned off") and if I could leave all the harnesses attached too, that'd be great. So my question is: Can I program the EVO-ONE with it installed in the car(all harnesses attached) with the FlashLInk 2 if I disconnect the car's battery first? Or do I HAVE to disconnect all the harnesses from the EVO-ONE before programming?

I installed an EVO-ONE using the THAR-ONE-NIS2 T-harness in a 2007 Nissan Maxima w/Intellikey (obviously more connections were needed aside from the T-harness)... My question is: Do I need to run the tachometer wire from the Fortin 20pin connector to the tachometer wire at the ECU/ECM in order to use the "Tach Datalink only" option that's under the remote starter options via the FlashLink software. I thought some cars are getting this signal via the OBDII CANs. My Fortin install instrustions (Guide #17763) only had me connect to CAN-high and CAN-low on the OBDII connector. I already set the datalink protocol to "Fortin" as I thought this would be required. I realize I could just use "tachless" mode but I would prefer it starting using my tach signal. Tachless mode does work though(I used this mode to verify the bypass and remote start features were working). To be clear, I have only tried starting the car with "tachless only" mode and i have not ran a wire to the ECU/ECM tach line yet as im not sure if it is needed. So what do I need to do in order to use "Tach datalink only" mode? My guess is setting datalink protocol to "Fortin" and run the evo's tach wire to the tach wire @ the ECM.